Omega - Breitling - Grand SEIKO - Tudor - Parmigiani - Zenith - TAG Heuer - Oris - Wellendorff - Pomellato - Gucci - Seiko - Czapek - Laurent Ferrier
Omega - Breitling - Grand SEIKO - Tudor - Parmigiani - Zenith - TAG Heuer - Oris - Wellendorff - Pomellato - Gucci - Seiko - Czapek - Laurent Ferrier
July 23, 2026 3 min read

For centuries, the ruby has held a distinction that no other coloured gemstone can claim: it is the only stone that has consistently rivalled and sometimes surpassed diamonds in per-carat value at auction. In 2023, a 55-carat Mozambique ruby sold at Sotheby’s New York for $34.8 million, setting the all-time record for any coloured gemstone. That record still stands in 2026, and the forces behind it tell a story every serious jewellery buyer should understand.

The ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum, coloured by trace amounts of chromium. It scores 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond.
Two forces are converging. First, the lab-grown diamond revolution has fundamentally altered the natural diamond market. As lab-grown stones become commoditized and prices fall, natural coloured gemstones with genuine geological scarcity are attracting buyers and investors who want assets that cannot be mass-produced. A fine ruby cannot be replicated in a lab with the same market acceptance that lab-grown diamonds enjoy; the coloured gemstone market still overwhelmingly values natural origin.
Second, supply is tightening. Myanmar’s Mogok Valley, the most legendary ruby source on earth, has been effectively closed to new large-scale mining due to political instability. The result is a “legacy effect”: existing Burmese rubies in circulation are appreciating rapidly, with unheated specimens over two carats commanding premiums that dwarf equivalent diamonds

In the diamond world, the 4Cs share relatively equal weight. In rubies, colour accounts for up to 50% of a stone’s value. The pinnacle is “pigeon blood,” a term first used in 1829 to describe the finest rubies from Mogok. It refers to a vivid, pure red with a subtle blue undertone and strong fluorescence that creates an almost liquid internal glow. Fewer than 1% of all rubies earn this designation from top gemological laboratories.
Mozambique has emerged as the modern challenger. Stones from the Montepuez region often display exceptional clarity and can achieve vivid reds that rival Burmese material. Critically, Mozambique rubies come with blockchain-backed traceability through ethical producers, making them the responsible choice for buyers who care about provenance. Fine Mozambique stones now regularly receive “pigeon blood” certification from labs like GRS and SSEF.
Heat treatment matters enormously. Approximately 95% of the world’s rubies undergo heat treatment to improve colour and clarity. This is an accepted industry practice, but unheated rubies command a 100 to 300% premium over heated stones of comparable appearance. For any significant ruby purchase, a certificate from GIA, GRS, or SSEF confirming treatment status is non-negotiable
Origin drives price, not just quality. A Burmese ruby will typically cost three to five times more than a visually comparable Mozambique stone purely because of provenance and scarcity. A fine Ceylon (Sri Lankan) ruby offers a more accessible entry point with lighter, pinkish reds and exceptional transparency.
Inclusions are not always flaws. In rubies, fine needle-like inclusions called “silk” can actually enhance the stone’s appearance by scattering light and creating a soft, velvety glow. Eye-clean rubies are desirable, but the presence of silk is part of what gives the finest Burmese stones their legendary character.
Rubies at Bandiera
Rubies deserve the same thoughtful, expert-guided buying experience as a fine diamond. At Bandiera Jewellers, we help clients evaluate colour saturation, treatment status, and origin certification in person, where nuances that photographs cannot capture become immediately obvious. Whether you are drawn to a ruby and diamond ring, a custom pendant, or a loose stone for a bespoke commission, our team can help you design your own ruby piece. Visit us at our Woodbridge or Yorkville boutique, or explore our fine jewellery collection online.
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